The latest rendition of Giraud’s NV Blanc de Craie Brut offers up aromas of citrus oil, fresh pear and linden blossom. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, vinous and satiny mtextured, with a delicate mousse, ripe but racy acids and a saline finish. Charming and structurally open-knit, it’s already drinking well. As usual, this is a blend of Chardonnay from Aÿ and the Montagne de Reims.